DILLI KI RAMLILA

The first Ramlila was staged some time in 1200-1500 CE. Today, the world’s oldest and most famous Ramlila is Chitrakut Ramlila of Varanasi, in its 468^th year now.

The oldest Dilli Ramlila is the Maha (Sanatan) Ramlila. It was started in 1830 by the last Mughal Emperor, Bahadur Shah Zafar. Every evening at six pm, the performance begins with a procession of “jhankis (tableau of costumed performers),” passing through the lanes of old Delhi, starting at Chandni Chowk and ending at Ramlila Ground for the night’s performance. At the end of the performance, the procession returns to Chandni Chowk on the same route but in reverse. In recent years the enthusiasm for this Ramlila has waned because of the several hi-tech Ramlilas now being staged in Dilli.

Of the 300-400 Ramlilas being staged in Dilli, the best known is the Luv Kush Ramlila staged at the Lal Quila Maidan (Red Fort Grounds). Started just 36 years ago, in 1979, it has become the most popular Ramlila of Delhi. The daily spectators are 10-15,000 but at the finalé the number exceeds 100,000.

The reasons for Luv Kush’s success are not hard to discern: vision, planning, hi-tech, professionalism and meticulous execution.

Planning for the Ramlila begins eight-nine months before the opening day. The theme and stage-designs are finalized. Professionals are engaged to give effect to the plans.

At this year’s Ramlila, Ganesha appeared in the night sky, and descended, as if from heaven, amidst psychedelic lights, live ‘bhajans,’ and the crowd on its feet chanting Ganesha Vandana. The hydraulic-lift that lowered the Ganesha could be seen and that detracted from the magic a bit. Perhaps in the years to come a solution to this will be found.

In the coming days, Ahilya will transform into a living-being from stone, Hanuman will fly over the audience, and Megnand will appear at different places in mid-air. Kumar Gowda, the stunts and special acts whizz of hit TV serial Mahabharata, choreographed the special effects. Professionals and equipment for these was brought from Mumbai.

Seventy actors, a few playing multiple roles, will enact the Lila. The cast includes several well-known Bollywood and TV actors, - Asrani. Upasana Singh, Surendra Pal, Raza Murad, Shankar Sahney, Gagan Malik (Rama),  Ravi Kishan (super star of Bhojpuri films) and Manoj Tiwari (BJP MP from NE Delhi). Fifteen dancers in shiny costumes do scintillating numbers each day.

Costumes and make up, the other vital ingredients of a show, are in good hands. Costume- designer of ‘Devon Ke Dev... Mahadev’ designed the costumes. Four tailors are in daily attendance to make last minute alterations. Four makeup artists give the looks: Rakshas to appear fearful: dark complexion, thick, arched eyebrows, blood red mouth; and gods to appear serene and benevolent, light shining faces.

As happens in our country, the venue has an enclosure next to the stage - separated from the public by a 50-feet wide strip of empty land – seating 70-80, for ‘special invitees.’  And the special ‘special’ invitation, which I managed to get hold of, also includes a sumptuous vegie dinner!

For those who cannot make it to the venue, the performance is telecast live every day.

A happening in Delhi is not a happening if the PM doesn’t visit it. So the PM, cabinet ministers, VVIP Babas – Ramdev and others – and other lesser dignitaries watch some part or other of the Lila.

PS: Despite Modi ji’s exhortations, no toilets are in sight. If you are perseverant, you may, with lots of help from the security staff, detect one hidden in a remote corner of the parking lot. A mobile toilet of ten tiny cubicles, mounted on a rickety platform about three feet above the ground. You are better advised not to climb the shaky ladders to the platform unless you have the balance of a Yogi. If you can stand the nauseating stench and human waste in the cubicle, you may use it.

But my advice to the ladies is to do it as was done in Bhagwan Rama’s time: in the nature.